LEATHER TYPES
Leather can be categorised into four main types: Aniline, Semi-aniline, Pigmented/Protected, and Nubuck/Suede.
Aniline Leather
Often referred to as Pure Aniline or Full Aniline, this type of leather is the most natural, meaning the hide is dyed in vats with soluble dyes which impregnate the leather, giving it dimension alongside its lush and deep colour (stained glass affect).
As leather is a natural product, the dye will take to each hide differently, even within the same dye lot, offering subtle variation. Little to no protective coatings or surface pigments are applied, allowing the leather to show its natural beauty and texture.
This style of leather tends to only have additional finishes of oil or wax which can allow some hides to have a beautiful pull up effect and patina over time. However, the absence of additional treatments may also render the leather more susceptible to scratching, staining, or fading, which is part of its charm.
Semi-Aniline Leather
Quite often misinterpreted, Semi Aniline does not mean partial.
Produced the same way as full aniline leather is, semi aniline leathers have further treatment applied. This can include a protective coating applied to the top of the hide which usually includes some pigment, to provide a more consistent colour. Due to the pigmented coating, some blemishes will be concealed leaving a more uniform surface texture.
Additional finishes may then be applied to the leather either by hand or by machine (e.g. antiquing or embossing). Finally, a clear protective coating is applied to seal the leather from environmental factors, which can include water or stain repellence.
Aniline Leather
Often referred to as Pure Aniline or Full Aniline, this type of leather is the most natural, meaning the hide is dyed in vats with soluble dyes which impregnate the leather, giving it dimension alongside its lush and deep colour (stained glass affect).
As leather is a natural product, the dye will take to each hide differently, even within the same dye lot, offering subtle variation. Little to no protective coatings or surface pigments are applied, allowing the leather to show its natural beauty and texture.
This style of leather tends to only have additional finishes of oil or wax which can allow some hides to have a beautiful pull up effect and patina over time. However, the absence of additional treatments may also render the leather more susceptible to scratching, staining, or fading, which is part of its charm.
Semi-Aniline Leather
Quite often misinterpreted, Semi Aniline does not mean partial.
Produced the same way as full aniline leather is, semi aniline leathers have further treatment applied. This can include a protective coating applied to the top of the hide which usually includes some pigment, to provide a more consistent colour. Due to the pigmented coating, some blemishes will be concealed leaving a more uniform surface texture.
Additional finishes may then be applied to the leather either by hand or by machine (e.g. antiquing or embossing). Finally, a clear protective coating is applied to seal the leather from environmental factors, which can include water or stain repellence.
Pigmented/Protected Leather
As above, this quality of leather is dyed but the surface is then coated with a pigmented topcoat. Blemishes and imperfections are removed through buffing or sanding and then may be embossed with an artificial texture.
Pigmented leather is a durable quality with a consistent colour and finish but sometimes at the expense of the leathers natural properties.
Nubuck/Suede
Some aniline leathers are sanded of buffed to create an open nap; the result is called Nubuck. These leathers are the softest kind available and have a beautiful, almost velvety, feel. Yet, they are also the most susceptible to wear or build-up of debris due to the open nap. When this process is applied to a split hide, this creates a suede.
Pigmented/Protected Leather
As above, this quality of leather is dyed but the surface is then coated with a pigmented topcoat. Blemishes and imperfections are removed through buffing or sanding and then may be embossed with an artificial texture.
Pigmented leather is a durable quality with a consistent colour and finish but sometimes at the expense of the leathers natural properties.
Nubuck/Suede
Some aniline leathers are sanded of buffed to create an open nap; the result is called Nubuck. These leathers are the softest kind available and have a beautiful, almost velvety, feel. Yet, they are also the most susceptible to wear or build-up of debris due to the open nap. When this process is applied to a split hide, this creates a suede.
What to Consider
When choosing what leather to use, it really comes down to personal preference.
If authenticity and the beauty of natural leather is your preference, consider choosing full or semi aniline. If durability and consistency of finish are your main concern, protected leathers may be a more appropriate choice.
When selecting hides for a larger surface area, it is important it is to understand what to expect of the type of leather you choose. As the panel cut becomes larger, it can become harder to negotiate around natural features and there can be more wastage. Average wastage per hide is approximately 20-30% depending on yield of cuts.
LEATHER GRADES
Leather grades usually fall into five recognised catagories. While there’s no official global standard for grading leather, most manufacturers and retailers classify them as listed below; typically ranked from highest to lowest quality:
• Full-grain leather
• Top-grain leather
• Split-grain leather
• Genuine leather (also sometimes labelled as "premium leather")
• Bonded leather
Leather Structure
A hide is made up of several layers: the grain, the grain/corium junction, the corium, and the flesh. The highest-quality leathers preserve more of these layers—especially the grain, which contributes to strength, durability, and natural texture.
Splitting the Hide
The leather-making process begins with a raw cowhide, typically 6–10mm thick. This hide is run through a splitting machine to adjust the thickness based on its intended use. For instance, leather used for upholstery is usually trimmed down to around 1.2mm, while leather for belts might remain thicker—between 3.2 and 4mm.
The hide is divided into two key layers: The top layer, which is the most valuable and the bottom layer, which can be further split to produce lower grades
Leather Grades Explained
Full-Grain Leather
Full-grain is considered the highest-quality leather available. It contains the entire top layer of the hide, with no sanding or buffing. This means it retains all of its natural markings—like scars, wrinkles, and stretch marks—which give it unique character. It’s extremely strong, long-lasting, and develops a rich patina as it ages.
Top-Grain Leather
Also sourced from the top layer of the hide, top-grain leather has been lightly sanded or treated to remove imperfections and create a smoother finish. While it’s a bit less durable than full-grain, it’s easier to work with and is commonly used in items where a clean, polished look is desired—like bags, jackets, and furniture.
Split-Grain Leather
This comes from the lower part of the hide, beneath the top-grain layer. It’s thinner and more flexible, and often used to make suede. While it has a soft, appealing texture, suede is more sensitive to water and requires special care to maintain its appearance.
Genuine Leather
Despite the name, “genuine leather” is not the highest quality. It’s made from the leftover layers of the hide that have been processed and smoothed to create a finished product. It’s still real leather, but it lacks the durability and longevity of full- or top-grain varieties. That said, it’s still widely used in affordable leather goods.
Bonded Leather
Bonded leather is made by combining leftover leather scraps with synthetic materials, often polyurethane. While it mimics the look of real leather, it doesn't last as long. It can crack, peel, and won't respond to leather conditioners. However, it’s commonly used in budget-friendly furniture and accessories where cost is the priority.
TANNING
How Hides Become Leather
Leather tanning is the process that turns raw animal hides into durable, usable leather. This transformation is essential to make leather suitable for products like clothing, upholstery, accessories, and furniture.
Before tanning begins, the hide is cleaned—removing any hair, fat, and remnants to prepare a smooth, flat surface. Then, tanning agents are applied to make the hide "imputrescible," meaning it won’t rot. Once tanned, the leather becomes resistant to moisture, bacteria, and chemicals.
Why Tanning Matters
Tanning is what keeps the hide from decomposing. It strengthens the material and gives it the toughness needed to handle daily wear and tear. It also makes the leather resistant to things like abrasion, chemicals, and heat. Without tanning, the hide would dry out, crack, or decay.
Among all the steps a hide goes through, tanning plays one of the most important roles in extending its lifespan. It helps the leather keep its flexibility and moisture, protecting it from becoming brittle over time.
Types of Leather Tanning
There are three main tanning methods used today:
• Chrome Tanning
• Vegetable Tanning
• Chrome-Free Tanning
Chrome Tanning
Around 75% of the leather produced today is chrome tanned. This method has come a long way, with ongoing improvements focused on sustainability. It uses fewer chemicals, conserves water, and supports recycling throughout the process. When properly managed, chrome tanning uses roughly half the amount of chemicals compared to other methods and produces wastewater that stays well within environmental safety standards. The result is a high-quality, durable leather that maintains its appearance and performance over time.
Vegetable Tanning
This is the oldest tanning technique and uses natural tannins from tree bark, leaves, and nuts—usually sourced sustainably. It takes longer than chrome tanning and has a less supple hand, but the end product has a rich, classic look and a texture that ages beautifully over time.
While it’s easy to think of vegetable tanning as the most eco-friendly option, it's important to consider the full environmental picture. It uses significantly more tannins than chrome tanning and creates effluent that needs more treatment before disposal. Still, it has the advantage of using natural, renewable materials.
Chrome-Free Tanning
Any tanning method that doesn’t use chromium falls under the "chrome-free" category. These are often used for specific applications—especially in the auto industry—or where certain performance standards are needed.
A common example is aldehyde tanning, which uses glutaraldehyde. Leather tanned this way often requires more post-tanning chemicals to achieve the desired durability. As a result, the waste from this process also needs more treatment before it’s safe to discharge.
